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Enchantment of the World CAMBODIA Researched and posted by Seatha Say Book by Miriam Greenblat ![]()
central half of the country consists of a flat lowland plain that is home to nine out of ten Cambodians. Surrounding the plain is a gently rolling savanna. This in turn is bodered by a series of low mountains. The Dangrek Moutains follow the border with Thailand. South of them lies the Cardamom chain ( named for a popular spice grown in Southeast Asia). Here one finds cambodia's highest moutain, a peak called Phnom Aoral that rises 5,948 feet (1,813 meters) above sea level. South of the Cardamoms, along the coast, are the Elephan Mountains, and there are highlands to the east. Cambodia's plant life varies from place to place. For thousands of years the central lowland has been used for growing crops. Farmers plant rice in flooded fields and corn and tobacco in dry fields. Reeds and lotus plants flourish in marshy areas, and the savanna is covered with tall grasses that sometimes reach 5 feet (1.5 meters). The entire region abounds in fruit frees--banana, durian, grapefruit, mango, orange, and papaya. The central lowland is home to many fish-loving waterbirds such as cormorants, cranes, egrets, berons, and pelicans. Everywhere large brown water buffalo pull carts and plows. Vividly colored parrots and butterflies float through the landscape. The only danger domes from several species of poisonous snakes--the cobra, the banded krait, Russell's viper, and the hard- to-spot green Hanuman snake. It is a good thing these species are rare, because many Cambodians go barefoot the year round. Cambodia's eastern highlands are covered with a tropical rain forest, always green and always moist Handwood giants such as mahogany and teak soar one hundred feet (thirty meters) or more into the air, forming a canopy over shorter bamboos, sugar palms, rattan palms, and vines. The Cambodians weave the rattan stalks into furniture. They use the sugar palm for building the walls and roofs of their houses and also for making medicine, vinegar, and wine. They faster hardwood logs into rafts, which they float down the Mekong River to be made into furniture and boats. Many wild animals prowl the rain forest. These include sun bears, elephants, black panthers, and two endangered species-- spotted leopards and tigers. Many varieties of orchids are found here. The lower slopes of the Cardamom and Elephant Mountains, like the eastern highlands, are covered with a tropical rain forest. Magnificent pines crown the mountains' upper slopes. Mangroves border much of the coast. These are short trees that can grow in seawater. Their roots often grow from the branches and are so twisted and tangled that they block most traffic. Cambodia lies in the tropics, between 10 and 15 degrees north of the equator. As a result it is always hot here, or at least warm. The temperature usually hovers around 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) during the day and falls into the low sixties at night. There are no cold spots, because Cambodia's mountains are not high enough to become really chilly, even at night. Like most nations of South and Southeast Asia, Cambodia has a monsoonal climate. That means its weather is governed by winds called monsoons, which change direction twice a year. From November to April the monsoon winds blow from the north and the northeast, across the land toward the ocean. Days are sunny, clear, and dry. As May approaches the monsoon winds change direction and blow from the south and the southwest, across the ocean toward the land. Because of this it rains in Cambodia almost every day, usually for an hour or so in the afternoon. At first the rainfall is light, but it gradually gets heavier and heavier. By the end of the rainy season in October most of the country is soaked, with up to 1 foot (0.3 meter) of water covering the roads and rice fields. That is why most village houses in Cambodia stand on stilts. Cambodia's main body of water is the Mekong River, the tenth longest river in the world. The Mekong rises in the Himalaya Mountains of western China and flows south to the South China Sea. Along the way it winds through or along the border of six nations; China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Within Cambodia the Mekong runs for about 315 miles (507 kilometers). When it first enters the country, its flow is gentle. Then, above the town of Sambor, the river plunges down a series of rapids that make navigation almost impossible except in August and September, when melting Himalayan snows and the downpours of the rainy season raise the water level. Beyond these rapids, however, the river once again flows gently, providing water for irrigation and a transportation route that is open all year long. The most important tributary of the Mekong is the Tonle Sap, which is connected to a lake of the same name. The Tonle Sap-- both the lake and the river--look very different at different times of the year. During the dry season from November to April, the lake--also known as the Great Lake--is long and narrow and covers about one-twentieth of Cambodia. The river flows south from the lake into the Mekong. no longer flow into it. Instead, the Tonle Sap backs up, reverses its direction, and flows north into the lake. The northward flow of water through the river causes the lake to swell until it almost triples in size and covers one-seventh of Cambodia. This annual change in the lake helps Cambodians in two ways. First, when the lake recedes during the dry season, it leaves behind a layer of rich mud. Farmers grow large crops of rice in the fertile soil. Second, the nutrients in the lake make it ideal for fish. Cambodians catch more than 1 million pounds (more than 453,000 kilograms) of fish-mostly carp, chubs, and eels--for each square mile of the lake. Rice and fish are the main items in the Cambodian diet. Although statistics are not reliable, Cambodia is believed to have a population of about 7.3 million. About nine out of ten Cambodians are Khmers. They average 5 feet 4 inches (1.63 meters) in height, have a brownish-yellow skin, round eyes, a somewhat flat nose, and black hair that is often curly. Their ancestors apparently arrived in Cambodia thousands of years ago in tow waves of migration. One wave came southward from Tibet and China. The other wave came northward from the islands of Malaysia and Indonesia. The two groups mixed to form the Khmers. The most important ethnic minority in Cambodia are the Chinese, who are thought to number about 250,000. The Khmers and the Chinese get along well together and often intermarry. Another large ethnic minority are the Vietnamese. The Khmers and the Vietnamese do not like each other. One reason for the animosity between the two groups is that both claim the Mekong River delta as part of their country. The Chams--who migrated from Champa (now central Vietnam) in the late 1400s--number about 190,000. Unlike most Cambodians, who are Buddhists, the Chams follow the religion of Islam. Finally, there are the hill people, small tribes scattered throughout Cambodia's mountainous areas. The Khmers look down on the hill people and usually refer to them as phnong, "savages." The main groups of hill people are the Pear, who live in the Cardamom Mountains; the Saoch, who inhabit the Elephant Mountains; the Brao, who live in the northeast along the Laotian border; and the Kuy, who live in the northwest along the border with Thailand. The hill people are quite distinct. Each group speaks its own language and follows its own customs. Cambodia's national language is Khmer. It is the only language taught in the country's schools and used in government documents. The Khmer writing system is derived from an Indian alphabet that was imported into Cambodia over a thousand years ago. The writing system is phonetic and reads from left to right. Like all language, Khmer borrowed words from other languages, espechially the classic Indian languages of Pali and Sanskit. Khmer also incorporated words from Chinese, French, Malay, Portuguese, and Thai. Khmer grammer is simple. For example, there are no tenses. If you want to change "I go to the market" to past tense, you just add the word "already." But Khmer contains a huge vocabulary, and people try to speak and write it in a vivid and poetic way. Instead of saying simply "The athlete runs," a Cambodian will say "The skilled, well-built young man speeds galloping past." Khmer also is very precise. It has more than one hundred names for different varieties of rice. And it uses pronouns to signify a person's social status. For example, there are different words for "you," depending on whether you are speaking to a child, a parent, a Buddhist monk, or a member of the royal family. |
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